Climber hoping that he didn't ruin his ice season with some hard paddling

by Chad
(Thunder Bay, Canada)


So, I love climbing and have been pushing quite hard for the past few years, moreso this past summer.

Things were going quite well. I had managed to get out nearly 60 days this summer and had avoided most injuries (classically I have climbed myself into elbow pain).

Then I decided to do some hard kayaking and now my right wrist is decidedly upset.

It has been a week now, I am positive for Finkelsteins sign, but also have a "hot spot" and pain ~4cm up my forearm on the dorsal aspect of the thumb side.

Also, the odd 'creaking' sensation along the same area is bothersome.

I am also an avid ice climber and the season is rapidly approaching, I hope to get back into form in time to enjoy this sport. Also, I cannot completely rest my wrist as I must work. Please any suggestions you may have would be greatly appreciated.

1) Any value in splinting(night, work, etc)?

2)Supplements, value in glucosamine and chondroitin, Mg/Ca?

3)Anti-inflammatories (ibuprofen, naprosen, toradol)?

4.Ice dipping/massage suggestions for work?



Joshua Answers:

Hey Chad.

Specifically in answer to your questions:

1. Yes. Wrist splints at night is good if your fingers and wrist curl forward. The wrist splinting keeps the muscles from contracting and pulling everything forward into a contracted, tight, working position all night.

2. Supplements, yes.

Increase your protein intake.

Magnesium intake as described on my Kerri's Magnesium Dosage page.

Bone Broth, and lots of

3. I'm not a fan of anti-inflammatories other than icing effectively.

4. Ice Dip at work, yes! Can you keep a 5 gallon bucket of artic cold ice water there, and dip frequently for 10 seconds each throughout the day?

5. Creaking? Yes, tight structures can do that. Oddly enough, cover in peanut oil a couple times a day, and it can stop that. Other oil may or may not, but I know peanut oil has worked for me.

If you bust your ass with self care, you should be able to heal quickly. It's just a matter of doing the right things, the right way, and enough of it. You definitely have some recovery to do.

Rock climbing too much, followed by too much other hand intensive activities, can stress tendons, stress joints, make and keep muscles WAY TOO tight, etc. This sets you up for pain and ongoing pain.

More questions, more answers!

Joshua Tucker, B.A., C.M.T.
The Tendonitis Expert

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